My Palestinian Experience




Having arrived home over six weeks ago, it seems odd to sit down to write about my experiences in the West Bank. However, after looking at the pictures I have finally developed, I knew that I had to post them (remember that I broke my digital camera 5 days before the end of my trip, so I had to take the rest of the pictures with disposable cameras purchased in Israel).

One of the most challenging experiences for me in Israel was my trip to the town of Bethlehem, the birthplace of Jesus. Located only kilometers south of Jerusalem, Bethlehem is located in the Palestinian controlled area of the West Bank. I had been told by a former professor at Union College that it was possible to travel to the West Bank, but it wasn’t worth the risk. After having talked to a number of people who had been there though, I decided that this was an experience I couldn’t pass up.

Fortunately, I had met a couple of guys named Jamie (standing) and Rupert (squatting, right) who wanted to accompany me over to the other side of the wall.

Jamie, Rupert, and I in Bethlehem

For those of you who don’t know, the Israeli government has been building a wall between the Palestinian sections of the West Bank and Jewish settlements & outposts in the region. Having heard a detailed presentation from the UNRWA (United Nations Relief and Works Agency) about the barrier, it was time to take a look for myself.The Wall - Israel’s side As you can see, the Israeli side of the wall looks relatively peaceful as it stretches across this field of olive trees, and getting through the barrier to the Palestinian side is a breeze with a U.S. passport. However, once through to the Palestinian side, the view changed dramatically.

The Wall - Me on the Palestinian side You can see how high the wall was compared to me The Wall - the Palestinian Side Here is one of the watch towers along the wall

Palestinian Dove in a Bullet Proof Vest A graffiti artist represents the tenuous state of peace in the West Bank.

Not only was there graffiti and more cramped conditions, the Palestinians were clearly experiencing tough economic times. In spite of this, I received a warm welcome from every Palestinian I spoke with, even though there was a tension that boiled just under the surface.

One of the most interesting experiences I had was speaking with a young Palestinian man who ran a shop just a few hundred meters from the famous church in Bethlehem that brings thousands of visitors to the West Bank.

As he tried to sell me some souvenirs, I asked him about his family, job, and life in Bethlehem. In a very short time, he was seething with frustration as he explained how difficult it was to make a living and how trapped he felt by the restrictions placed upon him by the Israeli government. He talked about his dream of coming to America and asked me what he had to do to get there. He fumed about the fact that he could not visit Jerusalem even though it was less than 10 kilometers away. It was a conversation that revealed much about the pain and frustration felt by “average” Palestinians. (As I wrote this, I decided that publishing his picture with his face covered was prudent to prevent any harassment because of what I’ve written. Hopefully, I’m just being paranoid, but I don’t want to take that chance.)

I also visited Dheisheh Refugee Camp and spoke with a couple of Palestinian refugees. Hearing the Palestinian side will be invaluable to me as a teacher and I can’t wait to share with my students.

I’ll come back at another time to finish up the post, but here it is for now.

A note on the Wall – I can say that the barrier poses a severe threat to peace between the Israelis and Palestinians not because it is being built, but because of where it is being built. To find out more for yourself, check here.

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