Varanasi: A City at the Heart of the Hindu Religion
Today is my second day in Varanasi, one of the oldest cities in India. Here is an overview of the city as described by the Lonely Planet: India travel book I am using:
An Overview of Varanasi:
“Few places in India are as colorful, charasmatic, or spiritual as the bathing ghats lining the Ganges River in Varanasi. The city of Shiva (a Hindu god) is one of the holiest places in India, where Hindu pilgrims come to wash away a lifetime of sins in the Ganges or to cremate their loved ones. Varanasi… has always been an auspicious (good) place to die, since expiring (dying) here offers moksha (the release from the cycle of birth and death). The city is the beating heart of the Hindu universe, a crossing place between the physical and spiritual worlds, and the Ganges is viewed as a river of salvation, an everlasting symbol of hope to past, present and future generations. The magical but sometimes overwhelming city is where the most intimate rituals of life and death take place in public on the cities ghats (steps that lead down to the river’s edge).
The Ghats with colorful cloth drying on them
The ghats (steps) leading down to the river. Can you find “Where’s Roberg” in this picture? 
The accessibility to the practices of an ancient but still living religious tradition is what captivates many visitors, and a walk along the ghats or a boat ride on the river is one of India’s most absorbing experiences.”
The description is so accurate, I had to use it as an introduction. My plan was to stay for 3 days, but I am probably going to extend it to 4. A city of over 1 million people, it is large enough to have everything I could want, but small enough to have a lot of charm.
I am staying in the old part of the city, where cars, bikes, and autorickshaws are not allowed, and small alleyways that act as ’streets’ wind through homes and shops. Though the ghats are the major attraction, I have spent some of today exploring the interior. There is so much here that many of the people I’ve met have been staying here for a week or more.
The Boats on Strike
Unfortunately, the boat drivers have been on strike for a few days. I’ve heard a number of different stories, but here’s what I know so far: Right now, boat drivers don’t have to pay any taxes. However, the government wants to charge 50 Rupis (about $1.25) more per passenger to help save the fresh water dolphins that used to be very common in the river, but are now on the verge of extinction. Considering that a boat ride only costs about 100 Rupis for an hour ride, the tax would increase their charge 50%. The drivers are afraid that the tax will drive away customers, and they may lose their jobs. Unfortunately, there’s no end in sight. Too bad considering a ride on the Ganges in Varanasi is supposed to be one of the most special experiences in the whole country.
Sights Along the Ghats
Luckily, the view from land is interesting enough. One of the most fascinating things to watch is the ritual bathing that Hindus do at sunrise. Here’s a picture with them in the background:
The Hindus to my right are bathing in the Ganges. I’ll try to put a video of it up soon.
There is also all kinds of activity on the ghats. I’ve gone for walks every morning and afternoon, and it never fails that I’m approached by people who want to bring me to their shop, give me a tour of the burning ghats (more on this in another post), or give me a massage… all for a price, of course! It seems that when Indians in a tourist area see a Westerner, they see a chance to make a quick buck (or a few quick Rupis in this case).
However, when you get through that, you also see interesting scenes like a boat being made by hand:
So, overall, Varanasi has been a REALLY interesting city. If you want more info (can that be possible?! :) ) check out Flat Kat’s page.
As always, thanks for checking in!
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Thanks again!
Mr. Roberg
Mr. Roberg,
This city sounds really interesting. I’m wondering- do the Hindus bathe naked in the river?
Ms. Roberg
My Reply
Great question! In fact, people do not bath naked. Most men have underwear on that they change out of after they are done. Women usually have traditional, flowing, colorful robes on that they wear as they dunk themselves and then they also change when they get out. Unfortunately, I didn’t get a good picture of people bathing because I felt awkward taking pictures of people during a religious ritual. I have some postcards that show people bathing though. I’ll have to show them to you and the class when I get home.
Hello Mr. Roberg,
India sounds great! How is Flat Kat doing? Is he being a good travel companion? I was wondering if the people there do any pottery or art work and if so, what of? Thanks.
My Reply
It’s been great to have a traveling companion, though I’ve gotten some strange looks when I take his picture.
Thanks for checking in Thomas. Flat Kat is great! He’s talking about staying a bit longer and catching his own flight home (in the mail)!
As for the artwork, I have not seen a lot of artwork in their pottery (though I may not be looking in the right places). From what I see, there is much more artwork in their cloth-making. Indians are famous for their love of color and design in their clothing, especially for the traditional Indian clothing for women called the sari.
I’ll look and ask around a bit more to see what I can find out about the pottery for you.
Thanks for asking such a good question!